Wet Look Lashes Tutorial | How to Map and Style Wet Look Lash Extensions

Spiky Lashes, Wispy Lashes, Kim K Lashes, and Wet Look Lashes – we all love the striking, textured finish they bring! If you’re a fan of that spiky, textured finish (who isn’t?), you’re going to love this tutorial. We’re here to help you impress your clients and light up your Instagram feed with your stunning Wet Look Lash sets. We’ve created a simple guide to help you create those eye-catching Wet Lash Looks with ease, and don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds – especially when you have a few insider tips and tools to help you along the way.

What Are Wet Look Lashes?

Wet look lashes really started trending in 2020, and they quickly grabbed everyone’s attention. But then... well, with lockdowns, Lash Techs weren’t able to try them out straight away. Thankfully, the style is back and better than ever now!

A Wet Look Lash set bends the rules slightly, but that’s the fun part! Wet Look Lash sets use Volume lashes, but unlike typical Volume sets, you don’t fan the lashes out. Instead, you’re going for closed fans or spikes. That’s how you achieve that edgy, textured look your clients will love.

How to Make Perfect Lash Spikes

Creating spikes is easier than you think! Grab some Eyelash Primer and apply it to the tips of the lashes on your strip using a microbrush. This helps the tips stick together, making it easier for you to pick them up as spikes. Just be careful not to get Primer on the lash bases – this can make your lash glue cure too quickly, which can lead to poor retention.

When it comes to spikes, we recommend using finer volume lashes than you would for regular fans. Since the weight distribution differs with spikes, using the same thickness as you would with fans can cause the natural lashes to droop. If you want to save time and energy, our London Lash Premade Spikes are an ideal solution – they’re lightweight, perfectly pre-made, and save you tons of time in creating a flawless wispy and textured look!

Now that we’ve got the basics down, let’s get into how to create that perfect wet look…

How to Map Wet Look Lashes

You can create Wet Look Lashes in any style you like – whether it’s a Dolly, Squirrel, Cat Eye, or Fox Eye shape. The key to success is working in layers. Map your lengths based on the style and account for the fact that you’ll be applying different lengths to each layer. Make sure to consider what lengths are safe and suitable for your client’s natural lashes first.

At this point, you’ve already done your pretreatment and applied your eyepatches, so let’s move on to layering!

Layer 1

We’re starting from the bottom layer. Here’s a little trick to make things easier: take a piece of eyelid tape and use it to gently lift the lashes back. Stick the tape to the upper eyelid at the ends, but don’t press too hard in the middle – you don’t want to make it difficult for yourself later! Next, use your isolation tweezers to free the bottom layer of lashes.

Now that you have your first layer, you can start applying the lashes. For a textured, spiky look, apply closed lash fans or spikes to every single lash. Don’t worry if your client has sparse lashes – we’ll cover that in a bit! For this layer, follow your mapping with the shorter lengths.

Layer 2

Once the bottom layer is covered, apply some Superbonder to the glue bonds to ensure the glue is fully dry. This helps avoid stickies and prevents lashes from sticking to the eye patches. Now, gently tape down the bottom layer using fresh tape. You’re not crushing the lashes; just resting the tape lightly so it’s easy to remove later.

Next, isolate the middle layer of lashes. Most clients have three lash layers, but some may have more. If your client has four layers, treat the middle layer as the middle two. This will give more density and make the top layer spikes pop even more.

For a super textured look, apply lashes 1 mm longer than those on the bottom layer. If you’re after a softer finish, you can stick to the same lengths across both layers. For clients with sparse lashes, you can add a few open fans to the middle layer. Just be careful not to overdo it – a few fans will fill in gaps without hiding the spikes from the bottom layer.

Once you’re done, apply more Superbonder and tape down the first two layers.

Layer 3

Finally, you can remove the tape from the upper eyelid. Don’t worry – your client will barely feel it! For the top layer, apply lashes that are 1 mm longer than the middle layer or stick to the same lengths, depending on the look you’re going for.

Once the application is complete, apply your Superbonder one last time, remove the tape from the lower layers, and give the lashes a gentle brush through to bring it all together!

Top Tip: If you find that the tape on the bottom layer is a little stuck, use your volume tweezers to hold the lashes in place while you gently lift the tape with your isolation tweezers. This keeps the extensions secure and ensures your client stays comfortable.

Want to Experiment a Bit?

If the Wet Look alone isn’t quite bold enough for your client, why not mix in some colour? You can add coloured spikes alongside black ones for a unique effect. For a dramatic look, place the coloured spikes on the bottom layer. For something more subtle, try the middle or top layers. And if you’re feeling adventurous, why not apply different colours throughout all the layers?