How to Master Kim K Lash Mapping: The Ultimate Guide to Flawless and Wispy Lashes
Back in the late 2010s, there were two big approaches when it came to lash extensions, especially for Volume lashes. The European way focused on achieving a super neat top line, with every lash perfectly in place. This involved paying close attention to how lash lengths were applied to each layer of natural lashes, which was a standard taught in courses and even judged in lash competitions. If you’ve heard of ‘Russian Volume Lashes,’ this is the technique it refers to. Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, Lash Artists and their clients were more into a messier, wispier lash look known as Hollywood Volume.
Fast forward to around 2017, when Kim Kardashian began expanding beyond reality TV and into the beauty world. Her signature smokey eye and stunning lash looks became some of the most googled in Hollywood. This sparked a shift among European Lash Artists, who began looking for ways to add a wispy effect to their lash sets without losing that perfectly even top line. Now, we’ve got two main ways to create the iconic Kim K lash look, shaped by different trends and preferences. Let’s dive into both styles and how you can create them yourself.
Style 1: Just Add Spikes
Kim K lash mapping found the sweet spot for European Lash Artists, bridging the gap between the two clashing styles of Volume lash mapping. It also opened up more choices for clients – Lash Artists were no longer confined to the traditional rules of their training. That’s not to say clients didn’t appreciate a perfectly even top line anymore, but there was a noticeable shift from fixating on perfection to offering more variety, especially in terms of texture and volume.
Side note: While you can definitely create Kim K lashes with Classic extensions, it’s much more common to use Volume lash fans and closed spikes for this style. So, we’ll focus on that technique here. But if you’re after a wispy look with Classic lashes, the same mapping principles apply – just swap the Volume lashes for Classics!
The first style of Kim K lash mapping followed a structured approach, with layers still playing a key role in the final look, but this time with noticeable spikes spaced evenly throughout the set. This style has stood the test of time and is actually making a bit of a comeback!
To map out a classic Kim K look, start by drawing one of the four basic lash mapping styles that best suits your client. Then, at regular intervals, mark out where the spikes will go – using a different coloured pen will help you see them clearly.
To keep your top line super neat, focus on how you apply the extensions to each layer of natural lashes. On the bottom layer, use the longest length, then reduce by one millimetre for the middle layer and another millimetre for the top layer. This way, when your client opens their eyes, the top line will look perfectly even.
For the spikes, go 2 millimetres longer than the length in that section, and place spikes on both the bottom and top layers to ensure the spiky effect stays intact, even if a spike falls out.
Style 2: Spikes Are King, but Wispy Is Queen
The second way to create a Kim K lash look is a bit more relaxed – you don’t have to worry about layers or making the top line perfect. This is the American approach, where spikes are taken to the next level, embracing texture and wispy lashes. Honestly, who doesn’t love a bit of texture?
While it’s still helpful to map out your lash set and place the spikes at regular intervals, the focus here is all about building texture. Apply your spikes first, then work around them with wide, fluffy Volume fans to make them stand out. You’ll still want your spikes to be 2mm longer than the surrounding lashes. As for the fans, forget about layering – just let the wispy top line happen naturally.
For an extra textured effect, mix wide and narrow fans around the spikes, and don’t be shy about using different thicknesses. A wide 4D fan using 0.05 lashes can look gorgeous next to a narrow 2D fan made from 0.10 lashes, with 3D spikes from 0.07 lashes to top it all off.
About Spikes...
If you’re not too familiar with lash spikes, no worries – here’s a quick rundown. Spikes are essentially closed Volume lash fans. When you pull them off the strip, don’t fan them out before dipping them in glue.
For a softer, looser spike, just apply them straight from the strip. Be careful not to pick up more lashes than your client’s natural lashes can handle – use your tweezers to gently push the lashes forward and check the amount before applying.
For a more defined spike, take a microfiber brush, add a drop of Lash Primer, and dab off the excess on a tissue. Then run the brush along the tips of the lashes to keep them together before pulling them off the strip. Once you’re done lashing, give the leftover lashes on the strip a quick brush with a mascara wand, and they’ll be good to go for regular Volume fans.
If you want to skip the extra steps, go for premade spikes. They come in safe sizes, with lengths up to 17mm, and are made from the same fibres as our much-loved Mayfair faux mink lashes.
Lastly, if you want to keep things simple and light, skip the Volume lashes altogether and opt for flat lashes to create a lovely, wispy Hybrid set.
All in all, Kim K lash mapping is now a staple in lash artistry, inspiring many other wispy, textured styles. As with any timeless look, you can be as creative as you want. Whether you’re adding coloured spikes or playing with Easy Fan Lashes for extra volume and texture, the world is your oyster when it comes to Kim K lash sets!
For more lash mapping styles that feature spikes, check out these blog posts:
